Words On Wine - Autumn 2024

There is nothing flat-footed about the pace at which #V2024 is moving in the Mudgee region. The rapid onset of ripening will see many white and red varieties maturing together and vying for attention in the winery by overstressed winemakers and grape growers. Given this speedy nature of harvest, we can anticipate the release of a neoteric, lively collection of early drinking wines by the middle of the year. This is exciting because it is our first opportunity to get an unveiling of the spectrum of flavours and balance in the wines and a guide for what is to come.

Production of premium wines using most varieties is demanding of growers and winemakers on many levels and timely responses to seasonal conditions during harvest is vital. Humidity and above average rainfall have been a trait of the season so far in Mudgee and elsewhere across the state. To explain I’ll use the Branas index which was developed in France for the prediction of fungal disease.

It is a scale from 0-10000 based on av. temperature and av. rainfall between Oct-March (the growing season here). The higher the value, the greater the humidity over the growing season, and thus the greater the disease risk.

So where does Mudgee sit? At the bottom end of the scale are places like San Jose in California sitting at 800 on the index – so really dry. In France, Bordeaux is 6200, Burgundy is 6300 and Champagne is 5100. In Australia, the Barossa Valley is 2900, Coonawarra 3300, Clare 3600, Griffith 4100, and Pipers Brook 4700. Bathurst is 5890, Mudgee is 7300, and Orange is 7760. But wait for it…Pokolbin is 9900.

Compared to the long term averages used in calculating the index, if we were to put this year’s numbers in for Mudgee we would be closer to Pokolbin on the Branas Index than in postcodes. All this gives us is a “measure” to be used by vignerons to compare different regions around the world.

And we know from experience, that both Mudgee and the Hunter Valley have been producing outstanding wines under these conditions for the best part of 160 years. The wines I’ve reviewed are currently available are proof of that… they are wines with time.

2017 Robert Stein Riesling

The Stein Family have set the benchmark for Riesling in Mudgee. Grated lime zest, fleshy white peach stone and lightly toasted bread lead to a mouthwatering and gentle palate of juicy lemon, hints of ginger and poached pear. Very moreish with a trophy history to match.

11.5% | RRP$100
robertstein.com.au

2018 Yeates Jack Roth Shiraz

Sandy Yeates picked one of the best blocks in Mudgee. Red loam and quartz soil is perfect for growing reds. This 2018 Shiraz is true to form. Ripe tannin beautifully integrated, softened with spiced plum and sylvan berry fruit. Seamless and with plenty of time

14.5% | RRP$65
yeateswines.com.au

written by Robert Black

Winemaker Robert Black has been making wines under the BLACK label since 2013, and he continues to make wine from fruit grown in both the Mudgee and Orange regions.