Words On Wine: Summer 2025

Words by Robert Black, Winemaker

“Drinking Rum before 10am makes you a Pirate not an Alcoholic”

The French philosopher Voltaire wrote, “Use, do not abuse. Neither abstinence nor excess ever rendered a man happy.” He may well have been talking about wine. But it’s time that I let you in on a secret. The notion that consuming any form of alcohol is bad for you – as we are all reminded by the influential anti-alcohol lobby – has been proven false. The many research articles highlighting the benefits of moderate wine consumption (e.g. vascular health) are largely ignored by medical and scientific literature in the supposed interest of public health. Heart attacks and strokes can mostly be prevented by lifestyle changes, including not smoking, reducing weight, lowering blood pressure, treating diabetes, exercising, eating less fat, lowering cholesterol, eating more fruit and vegetables, and lowering stress levels etc etc etc. How about enjoying 200ml of wine per day? An easy and enjoyable addition in the modification of lifestyle for proven benefits.

The other aspect of wine that may turn people away unnecessarily are allergens. I have addressed sulfur and histamine in wine earlier in the year but I am often asked about skim milk, egg white and fish allergen declarations on the back of the bottle. These are protein containing agents that we use to clarify and soften wines. Think of why you put milk in your tea or coffee – the casein in the milk is binding with the phenolic compounds in the tea/coffee and will soften the taste by removing the astringency or dryness you experience. It’s the same with wine. These are natural “finishing tools” if you like that we use to polish and complete our wines before bottling. So, what is the risk? Tests have been conducted on patients with allergy to egg, cow’s milk and fish with the skin prick tests we used to get as children. The skin tests were used with wine containing high levels of these agents. The patient’s reacted positively to the skin tests as expected, however, when supplied orally with filtered samples the results were negative across all groups. This is because the residual protein has been removed in the filtration process. And even then, the amounts of proteins used in a normal fining treatment are below the threshold values for allergic reaction to occur. Therefore, there is a low if not negligible risk of a reaction to wine fined with egg, fish or milk. We are running out of excuses now not to enjoy a glass.

Thank you to everyone for your support of your local successful wine industry this year. I hope that you all enjoy the Christmas/New Year period. Here are a couple of suggestions below to help. Best wishes!

Winemaker Robert Black has been making wines under the BLACK label since 2013, and he continues to make wine from fruit grown in both the Mudgee and Orange regions.

BLACK wines are available online and at  Lawson Park Hotel, Oriental Hotel, Paragon Hotel, Woolpack Hotel, Kelly’s, Federal Hotel, Court House Hotel, Post Office Hotel Gulgong, Globe Hotel Rylstone, Kandos Hotel Kandos and The Small Winemakers Centre

Summer Wine Picks

2022 BLACK Wines Pinot Gris

Fermented using juice with full solids and no sulphur initially. Oxidative handling tames the phenolics and drops the colour. Definitely gris not grigio. White peaches, pink lady apples and a rounded juiciness that frames the palate. Finishes dry. Trophy HKIWSC 2024. 

13.5% | RRP$27 | robertblackwines.com

2023 Skimstone Barbera
Some of us have a narrow view of French varieties as the best, but here is a French winemaker, Jean-Froncoise Esnault producing an outstanding Italian variety established in Mudgee by Carlo Corino. Soft and supple regional tannins are perfectly lifted by natural acidity with a core of dark cherry fruit. Alcohol gives it a lift but everything in balance right now. A varietal 6-pack of 2021 Trophy NSW/2022 Gold Medal Mudgee/2023 Trophy Mudgee Wine Show 2024 available at Christmas. 

14.5% | RRP$45-$50 each | skimstone.com.au

Image Credit:

Glassware:
Flower Power Wine Glass,
Kip & Co, 2 Piece Set, $79. 

Other items on table:
Opal Oz Pax Linen Tablecloth, Kip&Co x Jenny Kee, $249. Aloha Embroidered Cocktail Coasters, Bonnie and Neil, 4 Piece Set, $69. Pearl Stand in Jade, Fazeek, $189. Splat Plate, Kip&Co x Robert Gordon, 2 Piece Set, $129 

All found at Good Day Lifestyle Co. 19 Perry Street, Mudgee